Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
